Kanchanaburi and River Kwai tourist guide
Kanchanaburi is most famous for the Bridge over the River Kwai and death railway, and many people visit the town for that reason alone. However, there is much more to Kanchanaburi than its bridge: the stunning surrounding countryside is great for exploring on a motorbike or a bicycle and the town itself has a very relaxed atmosphere. There are many comfortable, quiet guest houses which are ideal for simply relaxing. There are also a great many other attractions in the area including waterfalls, temples and many routes for impressive and scenic boat trips.
Kanchanaburi is about two hours by bus from Bangkok and therfore many people just visit for a day, see the bridge over the River Kwai and other related attractions, and then return to Bangkok. While these attractions are very interesting and can provide for a good day out, if you have the time you may want to consider checking into a hotel or guest house and staying for a few days. If you do decide to stay a while, be sure to check out the Allied War Cemetery and several museums associated with the war tragedy, all within close proximity to the Bridge over the River Kwai. These attractions have great historical relevance and are excellent for learning a bit more about the history of Kanchanaburi, its famous bridge and railway construction during WWII.
A Bridge built on blood
Made famous by the 1957 movie Bridge over the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi’s ‘Saphan Mae Naam Kwai’ (river Kwai bridge) is its chief attraction and an infamous one too. The steel bridge that you see today replaced the original wooden one that was completed in 1943 by POWs and slave labour under the command of the occupying Japanese, who were determined to push a rail link through to the Three Pagodas pass and into British held Burma. But less than six months after its completion the Allies successfully bombed it.
But it was the railway that pressed on to the border that is mostly soaked in the blood. Given the mountainous terrain and the Imperial army’s determination to complete the task in less than 18 months (their engineers had estimated five years would be needed), it’s not surprising that an estimated 100,000 people died constructing the 415km stretch that required deep mountain cuttings and hand digging. Very little of the original track remains, and visitors now come to pay their respects at the Allied War Cemetery for the estimated 16,000 POWS that died under extreme conditions including starvation and disease. A trip (best arranged with a tour company) to Hellfire Pass is the best way to see atypical cutting and experience the tragedy of war through the excellent information centre at the site which tells the story thoroughly.
Traveller tale: Kanchanaburi’s rail of death
Sixty years after WWII tourists are still attacted to the west of Thailand to pay homage to a 100,000 POWs and labourers who perished building the infamous rail of death. Today it’s various sites are Kanchanaburi’s biggest drawcard...more
Moving a bit further a-field, there are some impressive temples which are worth a visit. A trip to Wat Tham Seua, or the tiger temple, is a good family excursion as you will have the opportunity to mingle with and touch live tigers, and there is an excellent view from the actual temple atop the ride. There is also an impressive Chinese Temple nearby at Wat Tham Khao Noi, nearby - both are a 15km drive southeast of the town. Kids can also have fun in the labrynth of passages of the caves at Wat Tham Khao Pun which is within cycling distance.
Day trips are also often arranged from Kanchanaburi to the nearby waterfalls, a particularly impressive example being the multi-levelled Erawan waterfall which is 65 km from the town. A bit more rustic and overgrown is the Sai Yok Noi Waterfall, 60 km from town - although during the dry season this waterfall is a bit less spectacular. Other activities include trekking, elephant riding, boat trips on the river and trips to Three Pagodas pass at the border.
But if you don’t want to go on an organised tour and prefer to just do your own exploring, this can be a very rewarding way to spend your time as the surrounding area is spectacular at times. Why not just hire a bicycle and ride off into the countryside? On a fine day, this is a great way to get away from it all for an afternoon. Read our whole section about Kanchanaburi on 1stopthailand.com.
Kanchanaburi restaurants and nightlife
For evening entertainment, Kanchanaburi isn’t exactly a nightlife hotspot, but it has its fair share of decent restaurants and a few bars. If you are staying by the river, there are numerous small and inexpensive restaurants serving a variety of Thai and western food: simply head to one that looks busy or inviting as the quality is all of a similar, and decent, standard. Another good way to eat well but cheaply in Kanchanaburi is to go to the nearby night market and indulge in some of the many options provided by the food stalls that are set up there. The market itself is a good place for bargain hunting too.
On the river are a number of floating restaurants in which the atmosphere is the key selling point: one particularly good option being Mae Nam.
After you’ve eaten, if you want to continue your entertainment, there are many floating discos which blare out Thai-style techno music. They are quite novel and can be fun, although the loud music may get to you after a while. Other options on dry land include the disco at the upmarket River Kwai Hotel, or the Apache Saloon, which has nightly live music and is located on the main road through the town near to the train station, as does The Raft, located in front of the River Kwai Hotel.
Near the river there is the Beer Barrel Bar (look for the giant beer barrel by the road side), which is more of a beer garden, likewise for the nearby Brew House.
Getting to Kanchanaburi
Kanchanaburi is easily reachable by bus from Bangkok's southern bus terminal, the buses leave frequently from 05:00 until 22:00, and the journey takes about two hours. There is also a handy private minibus link between Kanchanaburi and Ayuthaya which departs twice daily (morning and early afternoon), enquire with your guesthouse, concierge or a local travel agent for details, journey time is two hours.
Alternatively, you can catch a train at either 07:45 or 13:45 from Thonburi station in Bangkok Noi. By train, the journey takes about three hours.
Hiring a car is another good idea and you can easily navigate your way west from Bangkok by following HWY 4 through Nakhon Pathom and then get onto route 323. It follows some lovely countryside full of fruit orchards, becoming undulating nearer the western mountains that form the border with Burma.
