Bangkok Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK)
Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport is the main entry point for most visitors to Thailand, and the second largest terminal building in the world. The new and very spacious passenger terminal handles all domestic and international flights to Bangkok, with connections to all airports in Thailand, and most major regional and global destinations.
The airport is serviced by a large number of the world’s major airlines including Thai Airways, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, United Airlines, Japan Airlines, Singapore Airlines and Emirates, and is a hub for many visitors to South East Asia as well as a stop-over point for those continuing on to Australia and New Zealand. Accordingly, there are plenty of flights originating in Europe as well as a number of flights either originating or ending in Bangkok that stop in Japan en-route to and from the west coast of the US and Canada.
Bangkok International Airport has one very large passenger terminal, with seven levels and seven concourses. Level 1 houses the bus lobby; Level 2 is the Arrivals area, with Immigration and Customs, Baggage Claim and transfer services; Level 3 contains most passenger facilities and amenities; Level 4 houses the Departures areas; Level 5 is occupied by airport and airlines business offices; Level 6 has restaurants; and Level 7 boasts an observation deck. The seven concourses are labelled A through G, with A and B servicing domestic flights, and C through G handling all international services.
Food and beverage outlets abound and you’ll find restaurants offering fast-food and Thai specialties as well as bars that are open round-the-clock. There is a Thai food court located on the mezzanine level between the Departures and arrivals floors. Duty-free shopping options are plentiful, as are shops specialising in Thai products and handicrafts, and others offering clothing, gift items, jewellery, books and other reading material.
On arrival at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport, nationals of most countries will be issued a 30-day tourist visa. It’s best to check visa requirements beforehand to be sure about current requirements, however. Baggage Claim is located on the same level, immediately after the immigration point. The Customs area is situated just beyond the baggage carousels, and only spot checks are conducted.
After leaving Customs, you will enter the Arrivals Hall and will likely be overwhelmed by the barrage of transport representatives and freelancers offering you special deals on transportation to Bangkok or other destinations. It’s a good idea to ignore them and head to Level 1 for the shuttle bus that will take you to the airport’s Transport Centre, from where you’ll find a selection of express buses, public buses and taxis.
ATMs and currency exchange counters are located throughout the passenger terminal, and are open 24 hours. There is also internet service available, although it’s rather expensive.
When you exit from Arrivals you can expect a crowd of ‘meet and greet’ people and will unfortunately be accosted by taxi and tour operators. The area isn’t especially roomy, but press on straight ahead to the exits for taxis. You’ll also immediately notice counters and shops running the length of the ground floor where you can get tourist information, arrange hotels, transfers, hire cars or simply withdraw cash at an ATM and purchase snacks.
Facilities and services at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi airport
Bangkok’s new airport has been described as one large shopping mall, and indeed you might feel suspicious when you see how much walking you have to do through duty free areas to reach your departure gate. Aside from very aggressive commercialisation, and teething problems when it opened in September 2006, the airport is world class and provides its 40 million annual passengers with most facilites expected of international travel.
The focus of passengers needs is the mezzanine Level 2 between Arrivals and Departures which has a good selection of eateries, a pharmacy and convenience shop, toilets, a prayer room, clinic and newsagents. Internet is provided both by wireless (purchase access cards - not particularly good value), and public ‘on the fly’ terminals similar to pay phones which are located here and on the lower levels. Escalators, elevating travelators and lifts - as well as a large open plan and vaulted reception area - make it relatively easy to navigate your way around.
All airline representatives are lined up along the entrance side of the Departures area (level 3), with domestic and busier airlines located to your left as you enter (the first section the drop off ramp). Here you’ll also find the left luggage facility, immigration desk (for re-entry permits) near the passport control.
There is however, limited seating and comfort areas pre-security and very little shopping. It’s advisable to pass through to the depature side of the terminal to relax and pass time. VIP lounges are all situated here, and some more expensive eating options. Once you’ve reached your departure gate lounge you’ll find very little in the way of refreshments on sales, and it’s a long walk back!
Thailand’ controversial airport
Week’s after the coup in 2006 the country’s much vaunted Suvarnabhumi Airport was opened as the pride of modern Thailand. However, under orders from desposed PM Thaksin Shinawatra to open ahead of proper completion - as an election tool to show off his decisive management - the airport was beseiged with problems. These ranged from insufficient toilets, to over-aggressive use of floor space by duty free vendors (blocking some fire exits), taxi monopolising and even cracks on the runways. In fact the controversies had been brewing for more than a year when a huge corruption scandal came to light involving the transport ministry’s purchases of luggage scanning equipment at inflated prices. The airport itself had been 45 years in the planning, frequently delayed by various mis-management, derailed governments and more. To add to its unpopularity the airport upped its passenger levies to 700 baht, making it the most expensive in the region. Other lack of transparency has been noted, such as the rip off airport limo service (see separate box), and fiddling in awarding the duty free contract to King Power (subsequently cancelled). All the same, as far as designs go it’s a world class structure with the tallest traffic control tower in the world and capable of handing 45 million passengers a year. Most visitors will barely notice the inefficiencies but six months after it was opened, the old airport had to re-opened for some domestic flights to alleviate the problems.
Transportation from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi International Airport (BKK)
Inexpensive taxis are by far the easiest, most popular and convenient option for getting into Bangkok until the shuttle rail is completed in 2009, and these can be caught outside the main exits of the terminal on the ground floor (see ‘Taxi Scam’ below’). But there are a number of convenient options on offer at the Bangkok International Airport for transfer to Bangkok and destinations in the surrounding area. Choices include airport express bus services and public buses, and taxis and limousine services. The airport is located 18 miles east of the centre of Bangkok, and several major divided highways and expressways link the airport with the rest of the country.
Car hire is also an option if you don’t mind trying your hand at driving in Bangkok’s traffic, and is also a suitable option for anyone planning to visit one or more of the provincial areas. To obtain the best possible rates and ensure that a vehicle is reserved for you, we recommend carrentals.co.uk as an efficient online booking service, having access to all the major car hire companies represented here.
If you choose to travel by public transport, there is reliable and inexpensive service on express and regular public buses that operate from the airport to most of the city’s popular tourist destinations. You’ll need to hop on a shuttle bus at Level 1 first, which will take you to the bus terminal at the airport’s Transport Centre.
The Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel Bangkok is located in the airport complex, directly across from the passenger terminal, and is connected by a walkway. The hotel features over 600 guest rooms and business and conference facilities. You can find other airport hotels here.
SCAM ALERT! Airport taxis
When collecting your luggage you’ll notice large signs warning you to avoid unauthorised taxis and use the AOT Limo Service instead for your own safety. In fact all taxis at the airport are authourised Bangkok metered taxis and perfectly safe, while the AOT Limos are aggressively and unfairly promoted, costing three times more! Even if you ignore their well placed desk, an army of their reps will accost you when you exit, politely but firmly hawking this rip off option. It’s not a very good first impression of Thailand, but the AOT airport management have poor judgement when it comes to transparency. Outside the ground floor (the taxi rank was only recently moved up from the basement after persistent complaints) you’ll find an orderly queue, and for a 50 baht admin fee will be in a taxi in no time. They’ll even help you insist the driver uses the meter - average price 300 baht. As with all developing countries you might occassionally encounter a dishonest driver (if so record his publicly displayed taxi number and threaten to report him to the tourist police). You can avoid this by spending 900 baht on the AOT’s highly profitable limo service, but we discourage it out of principle.
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