Getting around Bangkok
Bangkok is famous for its traffic gridlock that can seem at times to stretch out for miles and its not unusual to spend several hours in traffic or sitting in a taxi trying to get across town during rush hour. Roads such as Sukhumvit, Ramkhamhaeng and Ratchadiphisek are particularly slow moving at times, however getting around Bangkok now is much easier than in the past and there many options for traveling around the city. In recent years great strides have been made with the transport network and if you plan your journey at the right times, or stay within one area to do your daily sight seeing and shopping you might hardly notice it.
The BTS Skytrain
The BTS system is a fast, affordable and modern way to travel around most of Bangkok’s downtown core, and is used extensively by tourists. Unfortunately it doesn’t go to all the attractions though and is presently limited to two lines. The Silom Line starts out at Saphan Taksin station/boat pier, travels through Silom, interchanges with the Sukhumvit Line at Siam Square and ends up at the National Stadium station where the MBK and Center and Tokyu department store are.
The Sukhumvit Line runs along Sukhumvit Road – where most ex-pats and many tourists find themselves - terminating at On Nut station in the east and Mo Chit Station in the north, where the Weekend Chatuchak market is located.
Fares are between 10-40 baht or 100 baht for a day pass (10, 15 and 30 trip passes are also available, but you probably won't need them), and trains come every three to five minutes. Journey times are no more than 30 minutes from one end of the line to the other.
Metro
opened in July 2004 the metro is a crowning achievement of modern Bangkok and has made a huge difference to commuting and travelling around the city. It suffered a minor accident shortly after opening but is now widely used and intersects with the skytrain at Sukhumvit Road, Silom Road and Mo Chit, making it much easier to navigate the city. Trains arrive very frequently and its fast and efficient and brand spanking new. Tickets cost between 12 to 36 baht but are not interchangeable with the BTS. The Metro links up with Hualampong station, which is the city's main long-distance rail hub.
Taxi
are plentiful in Bangkok and are a comfortable and relatively inexpensive way to get around Bangkok. The meter flag fall is 35 baht and a trip across town from Siam Sqaure to the Khao San Road or Grand Palace should cost you no more than 150 baht. Some drivers will ask to charge you a flat rate, especially if you take a taxi outside of a major tourist area. This will only cost you more, so it's best to walk a few blocks and hail a taxi that will go by meter. Unfortunately neither the BTS or Metro penetrate the Rattanakosin area, where many of the historic attractions are, as well as the Khao San road, so a taxi or bus is the only option.
City buses
In terms of servicing all areas of the city, Bangkok’s bus system is excellent and a cheap, reliable choice for getting around Bangkok. The city has dozens of routes and can get confusing, however there are reliable English language maps available in most bookstores and tourist spots that detail the bus system in Bangkok. Lanes on some busy roads are open only for buses thus making travel by bus much quicker than taxi in many instances. Of course, in rush hour, buses can be a slow option. It’s also worth the extra wait and a few more baht to catch an air conditioned bus.
Green bus: 4.5 baht. These small buses are privately run and are often jam-packed. There are no closed doors on these buses and often you will see people standing on the first step of the bus.
Red bus (blue/white bus): 6 baht (7 for blue). Common government-run buses with fans and regular size.
Air con buses (cream/blue and orange: 9-17 baht (cream blue), 11-21 baht (orange) depending on the distance you travel. These are a better bet for a longer trip as the fans in the red and blue buses don’t seem too cool in traffic, especially so when they’re crowded.
Boat
Several options exist for getting around Bangkok by boat. The Chao Phraya has several boats including the Chao Phraya Express Boat, which runs from Wat Rajsingkorn to Nonthaburi (6 to 10 baht), and hits all of the tourist attractions that are on the Chao Phraya’s banks, such as the Grand Palace etc. There is also the tourist bus, which plods along much slower and is twice the price, but handy for hearing an English commentary on some of the passing wonders.
Catching the BTS skytrain to the Saphan Taksin (bridge) station and then transferring to a boat up river is a handy option for getting to the Grand Palace and Wat Po, with the distinctive Wat Arun (temple of Dawn) on the far bank – there are frequent ferries across. If you time it right (at about 6pm) you can get a fantastic view of the setting sun behind this exotic and historic chedi complex. The boat continues to the Bangpamphu pier which is conveniently close to the Khao San road (5 minute walk).
Canal boats
A map with routes of the canal boats is handy as these can make getting around Bangkok far easier and faster than travel by car. Several canal (‘khlong’ in Thai) lines operate and they are cheap, though it is advised that you exercise caution on getting on and staying on and getting off these boats as they tend to whiz speedily to their destinations. You might also find them a bit smelly.
Tuk-tuks
Named by the sound they make, these are a distinctively Thai mode of transportation and can be found wheeling around all parts of Bangkok, with hordes of them lying seemingly in wait for the unknowing tourist. They can be fun for a quick ride somewhere, and certainly the experience, however they are mainly the domain of the locals and unless you know how much a taxi fare to your destination should be (a tuk-tuk should be less 30 per cent of that fare) you’ll more than likely be taken for a ride in more than one sense of the word. In heavy traffic you’ll also find these open vehicles present a breathing hazard.
Motorcycles
There are also motorcycle taxis and these are mafia run and congregate in designated points at the head of the many avenues or lanes (‘sois’ in Thai) that come off the main roads. The drivers each wear an orange or green waistcoat with unique number. They serve as a transport capillary system and can be useful for avoiding that long sweaty walk down the lane to your hotel. It’s sometimes easier and cheaper to alight from a taxi that is stuck in traffic, cross the road to the side you are staying on and hop on one of these 20 baht rides. Residents also find them very handy for beating the traffic in an unavoidable rush hour cross-town journey, but make sure your insurance is in order, the journey is petrifying and not recommended!
Once in Bangkok you’ll have to contend with its famously notorious traffic jams, and luckily there are now two very good transit systems that have greatly alleviated this. The BTS ‘skytrain’ runs along two lines that connect the central parts of Bangkok efficiently and links with the more recently installed Metro system which covers a larger area. It is possible to reach the majoirty of tourist hotels and areas by these, and then a short walk. However, the largest cluster of historic sites - on Rattanakosin Isle (near the Khao San Road) - are out of reach of this due to zoning constraints to protect the heritage of the area.
Fortunately taxis in Bangkok are inexpensive and generally honest (if you remain alert and persistent). They are widely available and no journey in the city will cost more than 200 (US$6) outside of rush hour. Avoid travelling before 9.30am or between 3.30pm and 7pm. There is also an extensive bus system but it’s not too practical for tourists. For fun you can even take a tuk tuk ride, but you’ll find yourself swallowing plenty of car fumes!
