Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, Bangkok
Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace together are probably the number one tourist attraction in Bangkok, and hence probably in all of Thailand. If you are only going to see one sight in Bangkok this should be it – the stunning grandeur of the temples inside the complex is unforgettable.
The grounds of Wat Phra Kaew actually comprises of many ‘wats’ (Buddhist temples), all of which are superb examples of classical Thai Buddhist temples from the current Rattanakosin style era. Polished gold stupas rise up among ornate pillars and roofs which are studded with small mirrors and cut glass, which on close inspection has the appearance of an intricate mosaic, but from afar simply glitters and sparkles.
The chief attraction here is the Wat Phra Kaew itself, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, which was erected in 1782. This is the most sacred temple in the complex and Buddhist ceremonies are often held here. Adjacent to it is the Grand Palace – one of several Royal residences.
The travelling Buddha
The Emerald Buddha is perhaps the most revered and valued Buddhist icon in all of Thailand and attracts thousands of tourists and Thai pilgrims every day. In fact it is rather diminutive in size, measuring just 75cms in height and isn’t actually made of emeralds, but rather jade or jasper. It also has a rather tumultuous background. The origins of the Emerald Buddha are unknown but earliest records begin with a non-descript Buddha of marble and gold leaf in Chiang Rai, Northern Thailand, which cracked open in a fall to reveal the present ‘emerald Buddha’ inside. In the late fifteenth century it was moved to a temple in nearby Lampang (both of these temples are also called ‘ Wat Phra Kaew ’), and later to Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai at the zenith of the Lanna Kingdom’s power. But in the sixteenth century, raiders from the Lan Chan (Laos) Kingdom took the Emerald Buddha to Vientiane and installed it in a temple there. It was not until 200 years later that it returned to Thailand after King Taksin defeated the Lao. It originally found a new home in the new capital of Ton Buri but was moved across the river when Bangkok became the new capital, and the present Wat Phra Kaew was built especially for it.
The utmost respect is required when entering this building, shoes must not be worn and no photography is allowed. Also, when seated, make sure your feet do not point towards the emerald Buddha which is the focal point for all visitors – tourists, worshipping Buddhists and monks alike.
Also running the entire breadth of the perimeter walls is a beautiful, elegant mural depicting scenes from the epic Ramakian fable. This very impressive mural is constantly being painstakingly restored and touched up; a seemingly endless task which you will always see people studiously undertaking. There is also an ancient scale model of Angkor Wat inside the temple grounds.
The adjacent Grand Palace – built in a neo-baroque style during the reign of King Rama V is not as impressive as its adjacent wats, but it’s worth a look. These days it is only rarely used by the King, except on Coronation day and other ceremonial occasions.
Admission to the Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace compound is 200 Baht for foreigners, and free for Thais. The temple is open from 08:30 until 15:30. In order to enter you need to be wearing a long sleeved t-shirt and shorts or skirts also are not permitted, nor are flip-flop style sandals. However, any of these items of clothing are available for hire at the entrance if you are not dressed correctly when you arrive.
To get to The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, ask any taxi driver or alternatively you can get an express boat from the pier at Saphan Thaksin (by BTS station of the same name) and alight at Tha Chang, from where you can walk to the main road and then you’ll see the temple grounds in front of you. If you are staying in Khao San Road or nearby, the temple is reachable on foot – you’ll need a map though.
SCAM ALERT! Often visitors are approached outside the Grand Palace by locals claiming it’s closed for the day and offering to take them elsewhere to see other sites. They can be quite convincing, but don’t believe them, the Grand Palace is always open and these con artists simply want to get hired for the day.
